Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Mini Food Review: Flying Fish Cafes Potato Wrapped Red Snapper

Titled as one of their signature dishes, the Potato Wrapped Red Snapper is most definitely worth keeping around. This dish is is proof that 27 ingredients aren't needed to make a great dish. While it's true some of the components are a bit complex, the actual dish itself is fairly basic in construction-but oh so wonderfully full of depth when it comes to flavor. It starts with a lovely piece of red snapper, thick cut, moist and devoid of bones. For me this is big, I know fish have bones, but one of the reasons I will usually avoid snapper is because it tends to be a very boney fish. I will add that I do suspect there was a mix-up or substitution made here. The fish I was served was delicious but I do have my doubts it was snapper. But of course I have no proof beyond my own taste buds lol. The chefs then wrap the snapper in thinly sliced medallions of potato. This keeps the fish very moist and prevents over cooking. The potato-fish bundle is then pan seared and finished off in the oven. It is plated over a leek fondue. I find the "fondue" is very mild as far as cheese flavor goes and actually reminds me more of creamed spinach-but better because of the superior flavor leeks have compared to spinach. Then the dish is finished off with a reduction of veal glace, red wine & cassis butter. First can I say, that myself personally, I would be hard pressed to find anything that wouldn't be improved by drizzling, dipping, or pouring demi glace over it. Demi glace is a sauce made of equal parts veal stock & espagnole sauce-but I suspect they are using a doctored version. Don't worry though-the addition of red wine and cassis butter bring this sauce together perfectly. Two things are genius about this dish: first to use a demi on fish is nothing short of gutsy and inspired. Second the use of cassis & butter tame the meatiness allowing it to blend so perfectly with the fish. What you get is harmony, perfect glorious harmony. I highly recommend this dish. There is only one bad thing I have to mention about it-eventually it's gone. And then you're sad.

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